The only sobering problem is the rebuilding of a bridge on our original planned route tomorrow making us take an alternative route adding 50km to the already long 135km ride. That’s life. We are rested and ready.
Two days of R&R because we are in Yellowstone and we have ridden just on 2,000km and climbed 15,000m over the past 3 weeks. We think we deserved the rest and we couldn’t resist being tourists in this world famous park. Sitting on top of the largest molten lava lake in the world with amazing geysers, steam blow holes, boiling mud pads, bears, bison, wolves .. what a great way to spend a couple of days off. The only danger we faced was being killed on the road by our less than attentive tour guide. Shirl’s knuckles are still white. The only sobering problem is the rebuilding of a bridge on our original planned route tomorrow making us take an alternative route adding 50km to the already long 135km ride. That’s life. We are rested and ready.
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Two long days was rewarded with a short, relatively flat ride into West Yellowstone and a well earned 2 days rest (or site seeing as will probably be the case). Even the weather gods decided this was to be a good day with the sun shining throughout the ride and the temperature hovering in the low teens. Perfect riding conditions. The ride took us up the Madison Valley to the scene of a major earthquake in 1959 where a portion of the river was blocked by rock avalanches killing 29 campers in the area. The tectonic plates shifted so dramatically that the nearby Hebgen Lake tilted 19ft exposing one side and sinking the other. The signs of this major quake are evident today with a new lake created where the rock slide blocked the Madison River – strangely enough it is called Quake Lake. All around us during the day were 11,000ft snow capped mountains. Short, sunny, no wind, mountain views, flattish, geological history – what else but a 10. The weather forecast for this 125km ride was for early rain continuing all day. Fortunately the forecasters were wrong or else the rain gods took pity on us. One 600m climb plus a steady upstream day was made easier by the lack of rain and a fantastic tail wind over the final 60 km. Scarred by the previous days experience we were all over dressed and had to keep stopping to shed clothes. What a pleasure. We rode up the Ruby river scarred by bygone dredging for gold, over the pass and I to the Madison Valley. What a beautiful place. We are resting at the West Fork Cabins for a short 60 km ride into West Yellowstone and a few days rest -yeeha. This was a 9.5 day - great fun! Now this was a tough day. 153km over two high passes (over 7,000ft) in the first half. But the real test was the freezing rain at the top of the second pass that continued for the next 50km. Never was a town and the haven of a diner more welcome then when the crew rode into Dillon. Wortho was slurring like a drunk and Rodney couldn’t get off his bike except by falling over – nothing to do with the previous nights celebrations. This went very close to the McKenzie Pass cold. The savings grace was the strong tail wind that blew us down the mountain and into Dillon before we froze completely. However once we had thawed out the last 50km into Twin Bridges was dry with a slight tail wind, much to the relief of everyone. The American stole a march at the “flamme rouge” to win the sprint home. Some double teaming required tomorrow to prevent him sweeping the aussies. This will be an early night. Assessed as a 5/10 increased from the 3 at Dillon as the rains cleared and the sun came out. Happy 60th birthday Rodney. And for your present we will give you a 1000m, 14km hill to climb plus a “growler” of Bufflehead Brown stout to drink along the way. Generous to a tee we are. Yes the hill was a bit of a challenge but compensated for by some magnificent scenery through the Bitterroot Valley and over the pass. The ride took us back into Idaho for about a kilometre near the top of the climb and then back into Montana at the top of the Chief Joseph pass. This was also the highest point we have been on this trip (7,242ft) and is also the first time we have crossed the Continental Divide. Apparently we cross it a few more times before we exit the Rockies but that is for another day. We descended into a very peaceful valley and took some time out to visit the Nez Perce “Big Hole Battlefield”. The centre we visited was almost spiritual in its recognition of the Nez Perce and European deaths on this field. A stroll into the town of Wisdom (yes – Rodney discovered Wisdom on his 60th birthday) followed by a celebratory few drinks, birthday cake and meal was a perfect end to a great day. 9.5 out of 10. This was a 105km relatively flat day out of Missoula into a small town called Darby ahead of a big climb tomorrow. The route took us along a major highway but it had a parallel cycling path for well over 50km – absolutely fantastic. Smooth, clear of rubbish and no cars or trucks to worry about. The ride was down the Bitterroot valley with snow capped mountains on each side. Very picturesque. Our fourth flat tire of the trip wasn’t the Hodges this time and watching Howie demonstrate his mechanical expertise was something to behold. The “newby” Ron was meant to lead for the full 105km as his initiation and for joining us late but we relented and only let him lead for half the time. Thanks Ron. Darby is a very small town but has its own micro brewery which we visited (Bandit Brewery) and had some excellent beer and food. Thanks Bandit. A very pleasant day ranked as a 9/10 Another 6 days of riding rewarded with a rest day. Missoula is a university town and a great outdoor centre with mountain biking, skiing, hiking and surfing. Yes folks – 300km from the coast and they surf here. It’s a standing wave on the McKenzie River that we watched a number of guys “surf” across the face. Weird place. Otherwise a rest full day except for the Rhinoceros Bar that was serving 50 beers on tap – very dangerous. Probably why they call it the Rhinoceros.
Tomorrow we ride again with a new addition to the group – Ron and Clare Kelly from San Diego who simply couldn’t resist the temptation. Idaho greeted us with a hill and she farewelled us with one. Fortunately the day before had killed off half of the vertical climb so we only had a 700m vertical climb in the first 20km over the Bitterroot Range to take us to the top of Lolo Pass and into Montana. The obligatory photo at the border was completed and we zipped down the hill for 10km into Lolo Hot Springs. Deciding that we deserved it, we took the hot springs option and languished in 50C hot pool to remove any residual aches from the climb. Then it was a steady 60km flat/downhill run into Missoula and our second rest day. We were fortunate enough to visit the Adventure Cycling Centre which is headquartered in Missoula. The Trans American cycle route we are travelling was designed by these guys and then run a great organisation. Thanks Idaho – we had a great time despite you trying to punish us. Today was a 8/10. Off to a local brewery for dinner and tomorrow we rest. Unlike day 10 this was a day of constant uphill for 115km. While the gradient was gentle (1 to 2%) for the majority of the ride, there was little or no relief for the entire trip and some fatigued bodies stumbled into the Lochsa Lodge camping area mid afternoon. The route followed the Clearwater/Lochsa River all day between some very imposing pine covered hills on either side (The Bitterroot Mountains). This is white water rafting and canoeing heaven with a number of groups spotted taking on the multitude of rapids that make up this river. It looked like fun albeit with a very thick wet suit. Whilst the views of the river were spectacular it did remind us of the Monty Python “travelogue” about the gondolas of Venice. Not another f’ing rapid !! Tomorrow we cross the Lolo Pass out of Idaho and into Montana. Tonight we eat, rest and recover. A 7/10 day. Idaho is a playful state. The brown bear we saw running up the opposite hill the night before at speeds greater than we could ride up was exhilarating if not a little discomforting. After having spent a great afternoon and evening with hosts Ken and Nancy at the Steelhead Inn on the Salmon River we started early with a breakfast in the dining room. The cinnamon rolls were to die for but possibly not the best food for a big climb. Having two time zones in the one state is a bit weird and it was hard to decide which one to run by – we chose “mountain time” to get off early. Having cruised down the Salmon River for 20km we were confronted with a 14km, 900m switchback hill to climb. Think of the zigzag near Kalamunda times 3 or 4. Sunshine helped us on the climb which for any hill junky was fantastic. For those who felt like complaining, meeting two fellow trans American cyclists on hybrid bikes towing carts with all their camping gear was a sobering moment. The 30km descent into the next valley was accompanied by heavy rain making this a tricky time to stay upright at 40kph. Once this was completed the rain stopped (thanks Idaho) and we completed the day riding up the Clearwater River close to part of the old Lewis and Clark expedition trail (1803 to 1806). This was a 125km day finished off in a hot tub at the River Dance Lodge. Except for the rain (and the hill for some) this was another excellent day – 9/10. Idaho you have redeemed yourself. This was a 10/10 day. An 81 km downhill ride (where else can you do this distance downhill?) through forested gorges alongside the Little Salmon River to where it met the Salmon River. This is fishing, white water rafting and hunting country – an outdoorsman’s paradise. It is the Salmon season at present and the banks had many a fisherman trying his luck on a day when there was no rain and with the temperature hovering in the early twenties. This is also one of the few rivers to flow northwards in the USA (just for you trivia fiends). We stopped at Riggins for lunch (because we had all the time in the world) where a local Jeff gave us the sage advice that the difference between a red neck and a hillbilly is that the redneck will shoot you and the hillbilly will keep you. Thanks Jeff – we have taken note. We are staying at the Steelhead Inn on the banks of the Salmon River with great hosts. And to top the day off, Idaho gave us back the hour she stole yesterday. Weird but wonderful. A short 20km ride along the Snake River before crossing a bridge brought an end to a great time in Oregon. They may be legalising the sale of marihuana in July but there is nothing dopey about this state. A great time had by all and finished off with an excellent breakfast at the Hells Canyon B&B – thanks Julie. Welcome to Idaho – 21km, 800m vertical climb virtually as we entered the state followed by torrential rain about 2 hours from the end of the 140km day was not a great introduction. And they stole an hour from us as the clocks moved forward!! This was a hard ride with a number of hills in addition to the “hello hill”. At 140km it has been the longest day coupled with some decent climbing. But the showers were hot (for most of us), the steak tender and the wine more than drinkable. Tomorrow is another day. An overall rating of 6 out of 10. Wow! We have now raised more than $20,000. Thank you to everyone who has donated so far, but we still have $10,000 to go! Please pass the donations page onto your friends and family and extended networks, every little helps!
Go Wheelchairs for Kids! https://give.everydayhero.com/au/aamig-challenge After a refreshing rest day in Baker City we had a 112km ride into Hells Canyon and the Snake River. Now there are names that evoke the wild west and John Wayne in the badlands (thanks Mark for your video). But the ride and the destination were nothing like the names would suggest. Only one serious 500m climb mid way through the day with plenty of descents through wide flat valleys and deep gorges. The Blue mountains were snow capped and seemed to follow us all day giving great views as we cruised through the ride. This was the first day where all of the team felt warm – well at least not cold and the rain decided to hold off until we had finished. To top off a near perfect day our first brown bear sighting drinking from the Powder River. The Snake River is the separation between Idaho and Oregon and our Hells Canyon B&B faces the river giving us our first view of the next state. Can’t get much better than today – a perfect 10. Message of Support from The Hon Julie Bishop MP, Minister for Foreign Affairs, Deputy Leader of the Liberal Party, Federal Member for Curtin.
“It gives me great pleasure to contribute to your blog with a message of support. While I may be a keen runner, the Prime Minister is better known as the keen cyclist, so he may regret more than me that we cannot be part of your challenge of cycling across the USA to raise money for such a worthwhile cause. I wish you all the best, and hope the weather and hospitality of America makes for an enjoyable experience.” |
The ChallengeTo celebrate Wheelchairs for Kids 30,000th wheelchair, a team of nine people including Trish O'Reilly, CEO of AAMIG will be riding the 6,600km TransAmerica Trail starting in Florence, Oregon on 11 May 2015 and finishing the challenge in Yorktown, Virginia on 19 July 2015. This cycle challenge is about raising awareness of this inspiring charity. To donate, please visit: https://give.everydayhero.com/au/aamig-challenge Archives |